Difficult decisions, where to draw the line?
Date = 10/12/2017
Day 20 (Expedition) – Day 26 (Antarctica)
Location = Spectre Base Camp
Coordinates – 86 03.376, 150 25.400
Altitude = 1263m
Temperature = -20 to -7C
Wind speed / direction = 0 gusting 40+ knot !!!
Windchill = variable 🙂
Distance travelled = 0
Distance remaining = 1736km
In the last 48 hours we have experienced drastically changeable weather from 40+ knot gusts in the night that we feared may damage the tents, to dead calm with clear skies, but biting cold below -20C, to cloud cover and -7C; reasonable climbing conditions.

We have spent most of the day carefully studying the wall with binoculars and assessing our options. To stand a chance of completing our return journey on time we need to leave base camp around the 14th December. Realistically that means we have one shot at another big climb.
There is a stunning line up the South spur of The Spectre that I have had my eye on for a long time. It looks almost within reach, given a few days of solid weather. But it’s a much more of a big wall than an alpine rock climb. At least 500m of steep, clean granite with the upper section looking particularly complex and hard.
To attempt it within the margins of safety, taking into account our extremely remote position, our long journey ahead and the instability/harshness of the weather, we feel would require a much heavier, big wall style approach using a port-a-ledge and 5-7 days. We have decided that to attempt it in the fast light style we intended, is a level of commitment too far.

It is with pang of regret that we turn our attention away from the South spur of our desires. But Jean and I can take pride in our decision that whatever we do out here, our priority is to come home safely. We must not push too far. The slightest change in the breeze can mean life or death if you are not equipped for the situation.
Therefore we have decided to focus our attention on a secondary objective. A skyline traverse of the Organ Pipe Peaks from left to right. A proud line and a major undertaking but with the option to escape off the back at each col, it is a far less committing prospect than the South Spur.

We have travelled so long, and worked so hard, to get here. I have schemed, trained, planned and grafted with so much energy to get us to this magnificent mountain. But we must accept we are at mercy of the weather. Already this far out, and with such large scale objectives, we need some stability to make a safe attempt at anything …
[Leo Houlding]
Read Jean’s thoughts [French] on Mont Harkness – another potential climb they checked out
Very wise decision I’m sure, not that I’m in a position to know. Can’t remember who said it, but success is getting back home, and too many have died taking that extra gamble. Your meticulous planning has paid off so far, so stick with it. Good luck playing on the Organ Pipes boys.
Leo you rang me from the summit of Everest and told me you were half way there. There is still a long way to go. Safe return with all your fingers and toes is a successful expedition. The three of you are far too experienced to take unnecessary risks – thank goodness
Sage décision et c’est déjà une aventure extraordinaire que vous vivez avec une belle réussite jusque là compte tenu des éléments.
Good call Fly. The trav looks like a great line, best to avoid the big wall sufferfest. Well done mate, stay safe
Such an impressive skyline. Enjoy it and have a safe one.
Well done Leo, from Jack, year 4, Windermere School.
It’s amazing what you guys have completed in such severe environment. It will be minus 12 degrees here in Staveley tonight, but I am not sleeping in a tent. Be safe have fun.
That looks like a beautiful and utterly spectacular route, I hope you all have the most fantastic time up there. It is so wonderful to be able to follow your journey, this expedition has captured my imagination and spirit like no other. Stay safe and as toasty warm as you can manage!
Dont stretch the cord too tight boys!
Hahaha. You remembered me Bridwell when he told me: “Now that I don’t climb anymore, I am happy, but not satisfied.”
Rebuffat said to preffer “ambitions to memories”. Along a great path of success you will always regret something. F***!. “The Prophet” should have gone on that first onsight no portaledge attempt…
Let some projects for Freya and Jackson!.